Happy New Year!

Hmmm, I'm not really a New Year's Resolutions kind of girl.  Don't think I've ever written down a list of resolutions, and the only one I usually ever make, even in my head, is to drop those last 5 pounds.  But I do feel like I'm in something of a transition period (I got tenure just over a year ago which gives me more freedom academically, I'm on sabbatical next fall which will give me a lot more free time, and I'm in the midst of starting my home-based baking business), so I guess I'm feeling a bit more contemplative than normal.

Here's a recap of some of my food-related highlights of 2009.

Wishing you a wonderful 2010!



January 2009:  Caramel Cake with Brown Butter Frosting Filling and Chocolate Glaze

Dinner Party - January 2009

March 2009:  My Version of Pierre Herme's Concorde with Chocolate Meringue and Nutella Mousse
   

April 2009:  My Birthday, Trip to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA)

 

Dessert at the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe at the CIA

April 2009:  More birthday desserts:  Hazelnut Dacquoise topped with a layer of milk chocolate crunch, topped with chocolate mousse, lemon mousse, more chocolate mousse, then a chocolate ganache glaze

July 2009:  Paris and Italy

Tomato Parmesan Risotto at the Rose Bakery in Paris

Macchiato at Platti in Turin

Spaghetti Pomodoro in Turin - No picture, but one of the best pasta dishes I've ever eaten




August 2009:  Pastry Course at the Institute for Culinary Education (ICE)

Mille Feuille with Chocolate Pastry Cream  (See more pics here, here, and here)

October 2009:  Brioche and Croissant Course at the ICE (still haven't posted about this yet, but I will!)

Brioche a Tete and Braided Brioche Round

Pain au Chocolat

December 2009:  Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake

I've been making versions of this for almost 5 years now, but it will always be one of my favorites.

December 2009:  Buche de Noel (and the Cutest Cookies I've ever made)

 

Macarons with the Daring Bakers

The 2009 October Daring Bakers’ challenge was brought to us by Ami S. She chose macarons from Claudia Fleming’s The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern as the challenge recipe.

I love macarons! My first macaron was two years ago in Paris at Pierre Herme. I wasn't reading food blogs daily at the time, and they were new to me. When I got home, I started looking for various recipes. I tried David Lebovitz's chocolate mac recipe, and they tasted great, but no feet. Then I tried another plain recipe, and no feet. Then one day I was at a bakery in DC buying macarons, and a baker came out of the kitchen, so I asked him about feet. He told me to add a little powdered egg white to the whites to help stabilize. He also told me to age the egg whites at least a week, and maybe even two. Finally - feet! Leaving the piped macarons out to dry before baking has helped a lot too. I think these may be my best two batches of macarons yet, I'm so excited. My new trick: use a second baking sheet underneath your sheet of shells, this helps the shells cook thoroughly without burning. The Nutella and Dulce de Leche fillings were amazing. I'll be making these again, exactly as is, again and again!!

Thanks so much Ami for such a great pick this month; check out lots of other great macarons here!





Tartelette's Macaron Recipe (with some very slight modifications)

For the shells:
90 gr egg whites (about 3) 30 gr granulated sugar
200 gr powdered sugar 110 gr almonds (or almond powder) 1 teaspoon espresso powder
1/2 teaspoon powdered egg whites (not in Tartelette's recipe)

Place the powdered sugar, almonds, and espresso powder in a food processor and pulse a few times until the nuts are finely ground. Even if you use almond powder or ground almonds, I strongly recommend running everything through the food processor. Otherwise, there might be chunks of almonds big enough to clog the tip when you pipe the macaron batter later on.

Beat the egg whites to a foam. You can use a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, but I prefer to beat egg whites with a hand mixer so as not to overbeat.

Gradually add the sugar until you obtain a glossy meringue. Don't go all the way to stiff peaks.

Fold the dry ingredients into the egg whites. Give quick strokes at first to break the mass and slow down. The whole process should not take more than 50 strokes. Test a small amount on a plate: if the tops flattens on its own you are good to go. If there is a small peak, give the batter a couple of more folds. If you fold too much, the macarons may develop wrinkly shells.
Fill a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip (Ateco #807 or #809) with the batter and pipe small rounds (1.5 inches in diameter) onto parchment paper or silicone mats lined baking sheets.

Preheat the oven to 280F.

Let the macarons sit out for 30 minutes to an hour; they may be ready by the time you're done piping all the batter. If you touch them, they should have dried out and firmed up a bit. Bake for 20-25 minutes, depending on their size. In my oven, 23 minutes is perfect for tiny macarons (1/2 inch diameter), 25 for 1" - 1 1/4 " diameter.

Let cool. If you have trouble removing the shells, pour a couple of drops of water under the parchment paper while the sheet is still a bit warm and the macarons will lift up more easily do to the moisture. Don't let them sit there in it too long or they will become soggy. Once baked and if you are not using them right away, store them in an airtight container out of the fridge for a couple of days or in the freezer.

To fill: pipe or spoon some Nutella or Dulce de Leche on the flat part of one cookie, and top with a second cookie.

Nutella Macs

Dulce de Leche Macs

Here's the recipe for the Pierre Herme macaron (with some slight modifications that worked better in my oven). More pictures, and the recipe for the peanut butter filling, are in my previous post.

Chocolate and Peanut Butter Macarons - A Pierre Herme Recipe

1 1/3 cups finely ground almond powder
2 cups + 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/4 cup Dutch processed cocoa powder
1/2 cup egg whites (about 4 large, aged and room temperature)
1 1/2 teaspoons powdered egg whites


Run the almond powder, powdered sugar, and cocoa through the food processor to remove all clumps.

Beat egg whites and dried egg whites on low to medium speed until white and foamy. Turn up to high and whip to firm but not stiff peaks. You want them glossy and supple; when you lift the beater, the whites should form a peak that droops a little.

Gently fold in the dry ingredients in three or four additions. It will seem like you have too much dry ingredients, but keep folding. I think I overfolded though, because I got wrinkly tops (never had that happen before). The white will deflate.

Spoon the batter into a pastry bag, and pipe 1" circles, about 1" apart on parchment paper or a baking mat. Rap the baking sheets on the counter (do it hard, to get the air out of the batter). Let the macarons sit and dry out a bit while the oven preheats.

Preheat the oven to 310 F.

Bake the cookies for 15-18 minutes. Remove from oven. Peel the parchment from the baking sheet, and drop a few drops of very hot water between the baking sheet and the parchment paper. Move the pan around to let the water spread out over the whole sheet. The steam will help loosen the cookies. Remove the cookies from the parchment. Let cool.

Pipe a circle of peanut butter cream on one cookie, and top with a second cookie. Enjoy!

Chocolate Hazelnut Layer Cake

I love making birthday cakes. I love birthdays and I love cake. This year, Susan requested a cake with the flavors of chocolate and hazelnut - which just so happens to be my favorite flavor combination lately.

The base of this cake is a hazelnut dacquoise, topped with a crunchy layer of chocolate, rice krispies, and hazelnuts. This is topped with layers of chocolate cake and chocolate mousse. The whole cake is covered with a thin layer of chocolate mousse and then a layer of Nutella chocolate frosting. Finally, crushed hazelnuts adorn the sides of the cake. It's not a quick cake to make, but it's much easier when you spread the work over a few days.

I'm not sure which she liked better - the cake or the birthday dance that Derrick and I did for her - but I'm betting it was the cake.





Chocolate Cake (from Epicurious)

3 ounces fine-quality semisweet chocolate
1 1/2 cups hot brewed coffee (I used hazelnut coffee)
3 cups sugar
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch processed)
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt
3 large eggs
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups well-shaken buttermilk
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 300°F and spray 2 9" pans with baking spray (I used 2 9" pans and made an additional 3 inch cake; I've also used just the 2 9" pans before; 2 10" pans also work). Line bottoms with rounds of parchment paper and spray paper as well.

Finely chop the chocolate and place in a medium bowl; pour hot coffee over the chocolate. Let stand for one minute, then stir until chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth.

Sift together the sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

In another large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat eggs until thickened slightly and lemon colored (about 3 minutes with a standing mixer or 5 minutes with a hand-held mixer).

Slowly add oil, buttermilk, vanilla, and melted chocolate mixture to eggs, beating until combined well.

Add sugar mixture and beat on medium speed until just combined well.

Divide batter between pans and bake in the middle of oven until a tester inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes.

Cool the cake layers completely in pans on racks. Run a thin knife around edges of pans and invert layers onto racks. Carefully remove parchment paper and cool layers completely.

Note: You only need one cake layer for this recipe, so either half the recipe or freeze the unused layer for up to 2 months.


Hazelnut Dacquoise (adapted from Pierre Herme)

2/3 cup finely ground hazelnut flour*
1 cup powdered sugar
3 large egg whites, room temperature
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 to 1 cup toasted, skinned hazelnuts, coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a 9" springform pan with parchment paper.

*If you are making your own hazelnut flour, toast the hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven for 10-15 minutes until golden and aromatic. Remove from oven, wrap in towel, and let steam for 1 minute. Rub the nuts together vigorously (still in the towel) to loosen skins. This is messy! Most of the skins will have fallen off (it's ok to leave some on); pick out the hazelnuts and coarsely grind in food processor. I sometimes buy hazelnut flour, as the difference in taste is minimal. It is still necessary, however, to put it through the food processor with the powdered sugar to make it fine enough, especially if you're using it for something like macarons. Otherwise the small pieces of nuts will get stuck in your piping tip.

Place the hazelnut flour and powdered sugar in the food processor, and pulse a few times to combine.

Separate the eggs (Use a warm water bath to first bring the eggs to room temperature if you forget to take them out of the fridge soon enough). You can store the yolks in the fridge for a day or two for another recipe (ice cream, sweet tart dough, pastry cream, yellow butter cake, or lemon curd perhaps). You may want to add just a bit of water to the yolks for storage.

Whip the egg whites just until they turn opaque.

Gradually add the sugar, and beat to firm, glossy peaks.

Gently fold the nut mixture into the whites with a flexible rubber spatula. Pour the mixture into the springform pan and use the spatula to make it as even as possible.

Scatter the chopped hazelnuts over the top, and lightly press into batter. I've done this dacquoise with and without the chopped hazelnuts on top.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown and firm. Cool completely on a rack. The dacquoise can be up to 2 days ahead (wrapped airtight and kept at room temperature) or frozen for up to a month.


Chocolate Hazelnut Crisp Layer

3.5 ounces bittersweet chocolate/hazelnut bar
3.5 ounces milk chocolate/hazelnut bar
2 cups rice krispies

Melt chocolate bars; stir in rice krispies. Spread over dacquoise layer.

Chill for at least 30 minutes. Remove the sides of the pan, and carefully peel off parchment layer.

This amount yields a relatively thick crunch layer. Use 1/2 to 3/4 of the recipe for a thinner layer. Feel free to use pure chocolate rather than the chocolate/nut bars, or stir in your own chopped hazelnuts into the melted chocolate.

Chocolate Mousse (adapted from Epicurious)

4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
2 ounces milk chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 pinch of Kosher salt
1 1/2 cups chilled heavy cream, separated
1/8 cup sugar

Combine chocolate, vanilla and salt in bowl.

Bring 1/2 cup cream to boil in heavy small saucepan; pour over chocolate. Let sit for one minute, then stir until smooth. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.

Beat 1 cup cream and sugar in large bowl to stiff peaks. Fold into chocolate mixture.

Chill until spreadable, about 2 hours.

Chocolate-Nutella Frosting (adapted from Chocolate Chocolate)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted and cooled to tepid
1/3 to 1/2 cup Nutella, depending on taste (taste is somewhat subtle with 1/3 cup)
Large pinch of Kosher salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
5-6 cups powdered sugar, sifted
2/3 cup milk, heated to tepid

Beat butter on medium speed for 1-2 minutes.

Blend in the melted chocolate, Nutella, salt, vanilla, 1/3 cup milk, and 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar.

Add in the rest of the milk; beat for 1 minute.

Add the rest of the powdered sugar; beat for 1 minute. Use more powdered sugar for a stiffer consistency, less for a softer consistency.

Refrigerate the frosting for 1-2 hours until spreadable.

You will have some extra frosting.



To Assemble:


Place dacquoise on a cake plate or cake round.

Cut one of the cake layers in half, horizontally. Carefully place one half on top of the dacquoise.

Spread a light layer of mousse on top.

Place the next cake layer on top of the mousse.

Spread the remaining mousse over the top and sides of the cake.

Chill for at least 30 minutes. The mousse needs to be hard enough to spread the frosting over.

Frost the cake. You will likely have frosting left over.

While frosting is still soft, cover the sides of the cake with chopped hazelnuts (I used about 1/2 cup). Refrigerate cake to set. Remove from fridge 2 hours before serving.


The birthday girl thought the cake was even better the next day, after the flavors had had a chance to meld.

Tips: This is a time-intensive cake, but you can break up the work over several days. I made the cake layers on Tuesday night and froze them and the dacquoise on Wednesday night. On Friday, I made the mousse, and assembled the cake up to the mousse. On Saturday morning I made the frosting, and I frosted the cake a few hours later. It was served Saturday night. You may also wish to make a slightly easier version of the cake, below.

Variations:

For a slightly less complicated recipe, use only the chocolate mousse or chocolate Nutella frosting for both filling and frosting the cake. You will need to make 1 1/2 to 2 recipes of the mousse if you use only mousse and 1 1/2 recipes of the frosting if you use only frosting.


Thank you Derrick for taking some of the photos!

Not very daring... Paris, Turin, Florence

No July daring bakers post for me. I spent the first half of the month in France and Italy, and the second half in DC. More tempting desserts coming soon, but for now, here are some of the amazing desserts I found on my trip. I was so busy partaking of the delicious dolci, I unfortunately forgot to take pictures of most of them!

The picture above is my first breakfast in Turin - the birthplace of both chocolate and nutella. It was at one of the several historic cafes in Turin, Caffe Platti. The interior was absolutely gorgeous - baroque style, very ornate. I am not really a coffee drinker, unless you count caramel latte's and caramel frappuccinos. But the macchiato above (even with no sugar added!) was delicious, as was the brioche. It's a little scary when a macchiato and a plain croissant feels like a very healthy breakfast after a week of pain au chocolat in Paris.



I quickly became a regular at Cantinetta del Verrazzano in Florence with a breakfast of cappuccino and brioche.




My hero, Pierre Herme. His macarons will always be my favorite. The olive oil and vanilla (green, below) was surprisingly good. The deux-mille-feuilles, though, may have been the best pastry I've ever had; it's like a traditional Napoleon (a millee-feuilles) but with caramelized puff pastry and a hazelnut cream. It did not last long enough for a photo shoot!



The pictures below are from Des Gateaux et Du Pain. I went for the chocolate hazelnut eclair which they did not have that day. But there were plenty of other gorgeous desserts to pick from instead.



I don't have any more pictures, but the schiacciatta (Florence's version of focaccia), hazelnut gelato, pappa al pomodoro, and zucchini flower pizza in Florence were all amazing. And I think I could eat the tomato parmesan risotto at Rose Bakery in Paris every day.


Coming soon:

raspberry shortbread bars

chocolate hazelnut dacquoise layer cake

August Daring Bakers